More Flavor: City Gem Hibiscus

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In just a month, chef-proprietor Claude Bosi has taken London's restaurant world by storm. With the relocation of his two Michelin stars from Ludlow to an ever-so-discreet former office space just off Regent Street, the emphasis is on preserving the formula that served him so well in Salop. The 45-cover restaurant is intimate, and the service, presided over by his wife, Claire, is unstuffy and relaxed. Dishes are inventive and refined, juxtaposing texture with flavour, from a delicate foie-gras ice cream starter to a perfect truffled sausage roll. With a sensational three-course menu that changes daily, dinner bookings are already at a premium, so lunch is the best time to test.

– Joe Rudkin