More Flavor: City Gem Salt Yard

It's not easy to garner favourable comparisons to London tapas giants Fino and Barrafina, but the diminutive Salt Yard pulls off this Goliath-sized task. The relaxed, split-level restaurant concentrates on Spanish and Italian charcuterie and simple tapas, rather than giving in to the usual seafood bias, and though the sharing plates aren't the cheapest, the place always seems full. The wide selection of sherry can't have have hindered Salt Yard's success, nor could deft, imaginative dishes like courgette flowers stuffed with Monte Enebro cheese and drizzled with honey (£7.25) and Gloucester Old Spot pork belly with rosemary-scented cannelini beans (£5.50).

– Joe Rudkin