More Flavor: City Gem The Old Ship

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If you're planning a trip to the Hackney Empire any time soon, be sure to stop by the newly renovated Old Ship next door. Gone are the sticky floor and shabby armchairs; in their place are shining surrounds and big floppy sofas, plus some choice drinks (including a great wine selection) and genuinely friendly staff. The restaurant at the back is the real draw, though — not surprising, as it's manned by the former chef of award-winning gastropub the Gun. Most of the dishes cost around a tenner and are helpfully divided up into categories of "cow", "sheep", "pig", etc., with pies and salads nestling alongside more unusual offerings, such as nettle soup and rollmops.

– Laura Caplin

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