More Flavor: City Gem

Dehesa

Together with Alan Yau's Cha Cha Moon and ace burger joint the Diner, Dehesa completes Ganton Street's status as the epicentre of Soho spur-of-the-moment dining. The petite charcuterie and tapas restaurant — built around a central bar with high, shared seating and a corner-bound ham carver — doesn't accept telephone reservations, but they can slot you on a call-list if you drop by in person and they're full. Younger sibling to the ever-busy Salt Yard on Goodge Street, Dehesa has a menu with similar cues: the chargrilled tiger prawns with smoked garlic butter, rosemary and chilli dressing (£7.50) are gloriously bitter, while the moist, just-sliced slivers of the jamón de Trevélez (£9) are perfect for sharing with a fine dry xérès.

– Joe Rudkin

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